Hair Conditioning Mask

By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Ingredients

%

Phase A

Cetearyl alcohol
4.00

0

Polawax GP-200 (Croda)
1.50

Methylparaben
0.10

Propylparaben
0.10

Celquat L-200 polymer (AzkoNobel) (Polyquaternium-4)
0.30

Structure Zea starch (Akzo Nobel) (Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate)
2.00

Varisoft BT 85 (Evonik) (Behentrimonium chloride)
2.00

Hydrovance moisturizing agent (AkzoNobel) (Hydroxyethyl urea)
5.00

Triethyl citrate (Leimeng (China))
0.20

Triethanolamine (20%)
q.s. to pH 6.50

Glydant Plus Liquid (Lonza) (DMDM hydantoin (and) iodopropynyl butylcarbamate)
0.50

Phase B

Deionized water
80.30

Phase C

Dow Corning 1501 Fluid (Dow Corning)(Cyclomethicone (and) dimethiconol)
2.00

Phase D

Dow Corning 949 cationic emulsion (Dow Corning) (Amodimethicone (and) cetrimonium chloride (and) trideceth-12)
2.00

Procedure

Combine all ingredients in phase A and heat to 80°C. For phase B, disperse the Structure Zea starch and Celquat L-200 polymer into water, add the Varisoft BT 85 with mixing, and heat to 80°C. Keep mixing until all the ingredients are well dispersed. While maintaining the 80°C temperature, add phase B to phase A with good agitation. Add phase C into phase AB at 70~75°C and then homogenize the batch for at least 10 minutes. Slowly keep mixing at 500 rpm and cool to 40°C. For phase D, premix the triethyl citrate into the Hydrovance moisturizing agent until dissolved. Add all the ingredients of phase D to phase ABC. Continue mixing the batch and cool to room temperature.